Guides & Help

A Simple Kitchen Makeover is a straightforward job, and most of it you can do yourself. If there's a task you don't feel 100% confident about, like trimming a panel to fit the wall or cutting cornice, get some help from a friend, a neighbour or someone who fits kitchens.

To help you see which tasks you can manage yourself and which you might want some help with, we've made some simple guides that show exactly what's involved.

1. Planning your project

A good, clear plan goes a long way to making sure you order everything you need, and that you know which tasks you'll do yourself and where you might need some help.

The most common mistake is forgetting to order all the items you need to finish your kitchen makeover. Make a simple plan, then double-check it, and you'll avoid mistakes that cost time or money.

Make a simple drawing

Draw a simple plan of your kitchen, like the one here. It helps you keep track of everything you need, so you only have to order once. Your drawing doesn't need to be technical, just clear.

It's a good idea to number your doors and drawers like the example. That makes it easy to check your list when you're ready to order. Note these on your drawing.

Heights and widths
Hinge hole positions
Left or right hanging
Count your doors
Count your drawers
Count your end panels
Count your hinges
Count your handles
Count your plinths

Download the drawing sheet

Hand-drawn kitchen plan with every door and drawer numbered, its size in millimetres and its hinge side — An example drawing

Make a simple list

Before you order, make a list from your drawing. Start with every door and drawer front: its size, hinge positions and hanging side. Then add panels, plinths, cornice, rail, hinges and handles.

Check your basket against the list before you pay, and keep it as a record of your order.

Example list with each door and drawer front's height, width, hinge side and hinge hole positions — An example list

2. Measuring accurately

Measuring is the most important part of any kitchen makeover. There's an old trade saying that's stood the test of time for good reason, "measure twice, cut once". In other words, double-check everything. Everything is made to the sizes you give us, so take the time to check your sizes and item count, and you'll only need to order once, saving time, effort and money.

ALWAYS MEASURE TWICE.

Measuring doors, 6 simple rules

Measure your doors, not the cabinet. It seems obvious, but you might be surprised how many people measure their cabinets and not their doors and drawers.
Measure the back of the door. The back is usually flat, so it gives a more accurate measurement than the front.
Measure in millimetres (mm). Precision is key, and millimetres are what we use to make your doors.
Measure the height first, then the width. If your size is in our popular sizes list, just pick it. If not, enter the height, then the width.
Measure each door individually. Doors that look the same size can vary slightly. Measuring each one avoids costly mistakes at installation.
Double-check your measurements. Take care to get things right and you won't waste time, materials or money later.

Drawing showing where to measure the height and width of a door

Measuring drawers

Measure drawer fronts with the same 6 rules as doors, measuring the drawer front, not the drawer box or the cabinet. You order them the same way too, from the popular sizes or by entering your own size.

Good to know. Whether a drawer front has the same design as the doors, or is plain, depends on the range and the size. On many ranges, shallow drawer fronts are plain because there's no room for the frame or pattern. Each door page shows how its drawer fronts look and the smallest size for that range.

Drawing showing where to measure the height and width of a drawer front

Measuring hinge hole positions

We drill your new doors with hinge holes in the same place as your old ones, free. To make sure your new doors hang right, measure where the centre of each hinge hole is on your old doors.

Top hinge. Measure from the top of the door to the centre of the top hinge hole. Note it down.
Bottom hinge. Measure from the bottom of the door to the centre of the bottom hinge hole. Note it down.
Left or right hanging. Stand in front of the closed door. If the hinges are on the left, it's a left hanging door; on the right, it's right hanging. The handle is always on the opposite side to the hinges, so a handle on the right means a left hanging door.
Enter these when you order. We'll drill your new doors to match.

Chances are all your hinge holes are the same on every door, but measure each one. Whoever fitted your kitchen may have moved a hinge, for example to clear a shelf.

Tall doors may have 3 or even 4 hinges. For 3 hinges, tick "Add centre hinge hole" on the order form and enter where the middle hinge sits, measured from the top or the bottom of the door. For 4, tick "Add extra hinge holes" and enter the second hole from the top and the second hole from the bottom.

For hinges, prices and how to add them to a door, see Hinges and drilling.

Measuring from the edge of the door to the centre of the hinge cup

Hinge hole positions measured from the top and bottom edge on a left hanging and a right hanging door

Ordering handles

There's no need to measure for handles. Count the number of doors and drawers you have and order enough handles.

You might want a longer handle in the same style for an appliance door, such as an integrated dishwasher. For example:

2 doors	2 Square D handles
4 drawers	4 Square D handles
1 dishwasher door	1 Long Square D handle
Total	7 handles

Most handles sit in the centre of a drawer, and at the top left or right of a door. There are exceptions, like appliance doors and deep pan drawers.

Example list with the kitchen style and colour, hinges, end panels, filler panels and handles

Measuring end panels

Measure the height and width of your old end panel and order the same size. End panels are made to the size you order.

Measure the width at the top and at the bottom. If they're the same, you're done. If they're different, your wall isn't straight and your old panel was cut to follow it. Order the larger width, then lay your old panel on the new one, draw round it and trim to the line. If you'd rather not cut it yourself, ask someone who fits kitchens.

A small gap of a few millimetres at the wall is normal. A thin line of sealant hides it.

Measuring the height and width of an end panel

Measuring filler panels

Filler panels are narrow strips that fill the gap between a cabinet and a wall, or next to an appliance.

Measure the height and width of your old filler and order the same size. If it's wider at the bottom than the top (or the other way round), order the larger width, lay your old filler on the new one, draw round it and trim to the line. If you'd rather not cut it yourself, ask someone who fits kitchens.

Measuring the height and width of a filler panel between wall units and the wall

Measuring appliance panels

Appliance panels fill the spaces around built-in appliances. You'll usually see one above or below an oven. Measure the height and width of your old panel.

These panels are usually square to the appliance, so there's no need for shaping or scribing. Order the exact size as an Appliance Panel.

Drawing showing where to measure the panels above and below a built-in oven

Measuring plinths

Our plinths come in 2540mm lengths, colour matched to your doors, and you cut them to length.

You'll need to check your plinth height too, as different manufacturers use different heights. We can make yours any height from 100mm to 200mm at no extra cost.

If you need 3 plinths 2000mm long and don't want any joins, order 3 lengths.

Be aware that kitchen floors are rarely perfectly level, so some plinths need shaping to fit. If you're not 100% confident about fitting plinths, get some help.

Drawing showing where to measure the height and width of the plinth under the units

Measuring cornice and multi-purpose rail

Our cornice and multi-purpose rail come in 2745mm lengths. Measure in millimetres.

Add up how much you have now, then add 20% for cuts and waste. Cornice is usually mitred at the corners, so make sure you order enough lengths.

We don't sell a separate pelmet. Our multi-purpose rail does the job under your wall units, and also works as a cornice or trim.

Cutting cornice takes a mitre saw and some practice. If you haven't done it before, ask a friend who has, or a joiner.

Drawing showing where to measure the length of the cornice and the rail on wall units — Cornice on top, rail underneath

Corner posts

Corner posts are 720mm long and come in 30mm by 30mm or 40mm by 40mm. Check which size your old post is and count how many you need.

3. Creating your order

When you're ready, with your drawing and list to hand, you can transfer that information to our online order form. You'll have everything you need, and a good way of checking you haven't missed anything.

Select your style.
Select your colour.
Enter your sizes. Doors with the same size and hinge side can be added as multiples.
Choose hinge drilling and enter your hinge positions.
Add hinges if you need them.
Add more items to build your order.
Check your order against your list and drawing.
Double-check.
Pay by card, Apple Pay, Google Pay or Shop Pay.

Check twice, order once.

4. Installation

Installing your new doors is something you can probably do yourself. If there's any part you don't feel 100% confident about, get some help from a friend or someone who fits kitchens.

End panels, filler panels and cornice can be more challenging if you're not used to cutting tools. That said, it's satisfying to learn, and much easier with the right tools. Below we show how each job is done, so you can decide what to do yourself and where you'd like help.

Open a job to see the steps and the tools you'll need.

Helpful tools for the job

Tape measure
Sharp pencil
Masking tape
Double-sided tape
2 quick clamps
Straight edge
Fine-toothed saw
Belt sander
Mitre box or mitre saw
Screwdriver
Bradawl
Cordless drill and driver
5mm drill bit
Handle jig

Installing doors and hinges

Tools for the job: screwdriver, bradawl.

Take the old door off. Press the lever at the back of the hinge and the door should pop right off. Support the door before you pop the hinges off. With an older style hinge, you might have to loosen the screws before it slides off.
Take the hinges off. Put the door on a protected surface and remove the screws holding the top and bottom hinges.
Fit the hinges to your new door. If you're keeping your old hinges, press them into the pre-drilled holes. Make sure each hinge is straight and use your bradawl to make a small pilot hole for the screws. Don't overtighten the screws, as they can tear the wood. Go slow, there's no rush. If you're fitting our new soft-close hinges, do the same, then swap the mounting plates on your cabinet for the new plates that come with them.
Clip the door on. With both hinges on your new door, offer it up to the mounting plates on your cabinet and clip it in place. It won't hang perfectly yet; you'll adjust the hinges next.

Adjusting hinges

Most hinges have three adjustment screws, for side to side, up and down, and in and out. Loosen the screws, make your adjustments, then tighten them again. If a door is catching, adjust the in-and-out screw on the hinge closest to where it catches.

On Aysgarth doors, use hinge screws no longer than 12.7mm (half an inch).

Installing drawer fronts

Tools for the job: quick clamps, double-sided tape, tape measure, sharp pencil, drill and drill bits.

Installing drawer fronts is a little more involved than installing doors.

Put a couple of strips of double-sided tape on the back of your bottom drawer front. It holds the front in place while you get the position right.
Line the bottom of the drawer front up with the bottom of the door next to it, and hold it in place with your quick clamps.
Screw the front to the drawer box from inside the drawer, using the existing holes.
Position the next drawer front above, using two £1 coins as spacers. Clamp it, check the gaps left and right are even, and screw it on the same way.
Repeat for the rest of the drawers.

New drawer fronts lined up on the drawer boxes, with a close-up of the gap

Installing handles

Tools for the job: handle jig, masking tape, tape measure, sharp pencil, drill, 5mm drill bit.

We'd always advise a handle jig. It's inexpensive and makes sure every handle is level and in the same place on each door and drawer.

Put a strip of masking tape where the handle goes and mark the screw positions on it. The tape also stops the wood splintering when you drill.
Set up your handle jig and drill the screw holes. On drawers, drill through the drawer front and the drawer box.
Remove the tape, line the handle up with the holes, and put the screws through from the back. Tighten them firmly, but not too tight.

A handle jig held on a door to mark the handle holes

Installing end panels

Tools for the job: quick clamps, tape measure, sharp pencil, straight edge, fine-toothed saw, cordless driver.

If your new panel is the same size as the old one, go straight to fitting it. If you ordered it wider to follow an uneven wall, trim it first.

Trimming your end panel

Lay your old panel on top of the new one, on a clean, protected surface, with two edges lined up. Draw round it with a sharp pencil.
Cut along the line with whatever you're most comfortable with. Some prefer a fine-toothed panel saw, others a jigsaw.
Use a file or sander to get a tight fit. Angling the wall edge slightly often helps.

Fitting your end panel

Clamp the panel to the cabinet, with the edges flush to the door, floor, worktop and wall.
Screw it in place from inside the cabinet. If you use new screws, make sure they're short enough not to come through the front of the panel.

Marking an end panel with a pencil to scribe it to the wall

Installing filler panels

Tools for the job: quick clamps, tape measure, sharp pencil, cordless driver.

If your new filler is the same size as the old one, fix it in place the same way as the old one. If you ordered it wider to follow an uneven wall, trim it first.

Lay your old filler panel on top of the new one, with two edges lined up, and draw round it with a sharp pencil.
Cut along the line with whatever you're most comfortable with, a fine-toothed saw or a jigsaw.
Use a file or sander to get a tight fit. It sometimes helps to angle the wall edge slightly.

Installing plinths

Tools for the job: tape measure, sharp pencil, straight edge, fine-toothed saw, screwdriver.

The easiest way is to use your old plinths as a template.

Take your old plinth off and lay it alongside the new length. Mark and cut the new plinth to length. If the old one was shaped to an uneven floor, trace that shape too, as for end panels.
Mark where the leg clips sit on the old plinth, then move the clips to the same places on the new one, using the existing screws.
Press your new plinth onto the cabinet legs and the clips hold it in place.

The plinth along the bottom of the base units

Installing cornice and rail

Tools for the job: tape measure, electric mitre (chop) saw, sharp pencil, mitre glue, screws, cordless driver.

You'll need to cut mitres at the corners. The only way to do that accurately on cornice is with an electric mitre saw.

How to cut a mitre on cornice

Remove the screws holding your old cornice to the wall units, and use the old cornice as a guide for your new lengths.
Set your saw to the cornice angles in its manual, and cut a test joint on an offcut first. For the matching piece, set the same angles the other way. Cut one joint at a time, and use a quick-setting mitre glue on the corners.
Offer the lengths up to check the fit. When you're happy, pre-drill and fix the cornice to the top of the units, using your old screws or new 16mm wood screws.

Using the rail as a pelmet

Pelmet cuts are simpler. Set the saw's base to a 45° angle. Measure the front length and cut a 45° mitre, then measure the return and cut the matching mitre.
Glue the corner with quick-setting mitre glue, pre-drill, and screw the rail to the underside of the wall units.